After doing sections of the TransVA 550/565 I’ve always wanted to do the entire route but haven’t found the time.
I was by myself this time for the Harrisonburg 400 loop, decided last minute, so a less rugged option which doesn’t add the slight complication of getting back from Damascus seemed right. Plus, I was so curious about the Southern Massanutten section – I had only seen the Western Slope XC trails.
I started and finished the loop from my house in Potomac, so I left out a few miles of C&O and added just a few miles of road.
I decided to go with hotel/motel overnights to further simplify everything. At first, I considered 3 days total, but I’m glad I took it a bit easier with 4 days, plenty of sleep and food.
The first stretch to the Holiday Inn in Stephens City I knew pretty well. Obviously not a problem since it’s right at the beginning, but there’s no more drinking water alongside the C&O Canal until Point of Rocks. Apparently, water filters have been removed from the water pumps: The water looked quite brown. The section between the crossing of the Potomac and Purcellville is really beautiful. If you crave some fancy food while you’re sitting outside with your bike in sight try Magnolias at the Mill – just off the W&OD trail.
Also worth a stop might be the general store in Bluemont. The following crossing on route 7 to get over the mountains is the necessary evil. I’ve been biking as long as I can think of so my sensitivity regarding traffic is pretty low, but once the shoulder ends at the bottom of the descent (before you turn into the Northern little detour) is really scary. I wish there was an alternative, but there isn’t really. Trucks pass you at 80mph with 2-3’ distance. Once you turn South again after crossing Route 7 there’s a friendly farmers market with great food and fruit options.
And a heads-up: The shortest way between the route and the (off route) hotels in Stephens City alongside 81 crosses some possibly private property (scrap yard with a loose dog), but I haven’t encountered any issues.
The second day started with a mellow ride until I hit the West Side of the Shenandoah valley. Beautiful little country roads around Zepp and a really fun descent into Alonzaville, VA. Missing out this time on the infamous hike a bike section and German River Road I appreciated the more mellow alternative.
The gravel was quite tough for my 40mm tires, apparently fresh gravel was just dumped everywhere. It slowed me down quite a bit. Once you pass the Bryce Resort, there’s punchy gravel climb where my 1:1 gearing combined with light tire tread wasn’t quite enough.
In Harrisonburg there are plenty of food and lodging options and the route mostly avoids the nastiest traffic. I had a little issue with my rear brake caliper, so I remembered East Coast Bicycle Academy that had helped me out with some complicated issue in the past. Not always open, but owner Les is great, super knowledgeable and ready to fix anything.
The third day after staying at a hotel just before the route leaves Harrisonburg I started out on quiet small, paved country roads until I hit the big gravel climb straight up to the Northern Massanutten Peak. What a great view from the top. From that point on I was in completely unknown territory. I never knew how much tourism there is within this area. Hotels, lots of golfing, etc. Once you climb into the mountains again on a longer, but not very steep gravel section traffic disappears. What a great route. After the long descent you pass by Catherine Furnace which is definitely worth taking a look and reading bit about the history.
I’ve ridden the Northern Massanutten (Fort Valley Road) quite a few times, but this route adds lots of gravel loops which are technically small detours. It’s worth it. Beautiful, lonely gravel stretches that add quite a bit of time and some punchy climbing. Unfortunately, you miss a great supply spot (General Store).
I stopped for water at the Elizabeth furnace campground of the Elizabeth furnace before staying in Front Royal. Again – great routing around nasty traffic! I had considered staying a bit North of Front Royal near the route, but there aren’t any options really until Purcellville area, except very expensive B&Bs, so it was a bit of a shorter day.
The fourth day started with riding on busy Route 55. I’d recommend starting very early, because traffic can be nasty here. I started riding at sunrise and got some food and drinks at one of the two gas stations along the road.
Once the route turns North into the country again, it becomes instantly enjoyable again. Not many supply points until Leesburg, so make sure you have what you need.
I was stung by a wasp in my leg while riding I took a longer stop in Leesburg and enjoyed great food and coffee at Goosecup Coffee, before starting the long straight path into DC. Not spectacular, but nice having the opportunity to take a different route back to DC. Plenty of trail side coffeeshops if you need a last stop. Close to DC the W&OD trail can get a bit confusing if you don’t know it. I wish they had better signs.
I can really recommend this route and can’t thank David enough to put up the website, routes, and super helpful recommendations. If you’re new to off-road riding or bike packing, I’d encourage you to start with sections of any route.
I rode a gravel bike with 40mm Schwalbe G-One all-round tubeless tires. I had two little punctures that sealed up – only had to refill some air. I met a lot of nice people, curious, friendly, telling me about their biking experience and a few not so nice individuals in trucks (always with certain political stickers in the back) screaming at me to “get the f*** off the road”.